It’s the third day of our Red Sea Cruise, which includes ports of call in Jordan, Saudi Arabia and Egypt. Today we are in Jeddah and honestly I was quite torn in deciding whether or not to visit the UNESCO Site of Hegra, but considering that the transit time to get to the site is quite long and complicated, we decided to visit the city.
I was curious to discover a piece of this huge country, which in many ways is still mysterious and unique in the world. They only recently, and more specifically in October 2019, opened their borders to the Western tourism. The only foreigners that were allowed to enter the country were expats, military personnel, professionals traveling for business or Muslims on pilgrimage. Saudi Arabia has finally opened their doors to non-muslim visitors from all over the world who are now able to apply for a tourist visa to enter the country.
I must be honest, this is not an easy cruise and cannot be compared to cruises in the Mediterranean, Northern Europe, Caribbean or Emirates where cruising is smoother and will give you a more comfortable experience overall!!!! This was really the most complicated, different and tiring cruising experience I ever had. Everything was complicated: visas, rules to be followed on the ship and ashore, various problems in the countries we visited, exhausting checks and delays due to checkpoints, very long distances to cover to get from one place to the other. Remember this is a new market – therefore many kinks still have to be ironed out, however despite all the issues we have encountered during this cruise, I do not regret it, so much that if someone would ask me “do you want to leave tomorrow and take this cruise again?” I would not think twice and would immediately say yes!!
How did we get the tourist visa
I must be honest, as I wrote above this is not an easy cruise, the visa process was incredibly chaotic and really disorganized. Luckyly I had joined a group that helped each other with advices and direct experiences for the processing of paperwork and various issues to get the Arabic Visa. Of course, things got easier and easier as it takes time to get the wheel turning in the right direction and smoothly. Many passengers didn’t receive their visa in time to disembark, my husband and I received it the day before arriving in Jeddah. It is very important that you check with your travel agent in order to apply in advance, we left in February 2023 I presume and hope that applying for the visa is now much easier. The only drawback to this stopover is that you can use the visa only once, this means that you cannot disembark and embark more that one time during your stop in Jeddah.
So if you are going to Jeddah by cruise ship as we did, remember to ask your travel agent to send you visa application instructions asap.
If you are flying there, you should take a look at the Saudi Government website where you will find all the instructions you need to request a visa : https://www.visitsaudi.com/en/travel-regulations
What to wear in Jeddah?
Another important thing to keep in mind, is despite Jeddah being Saudi Arabia’s most “liberal” city, visitors should dress modestly. Women should cover arms and legs as much as possible, if you are wearing a skirt or dress it should go down to your ankles, T-shirts should fit loosely, be long and fully cover your backside, avoid Bermuda shorts, short sleeves and necklines, if you wear thight pants or jeans, make sure you wear a long shirt in order that it covers your backside. As a foreigner, you’re not required to cover your hair or wear an abaya (I am sure you have seen them around, they are the long flowing black garments that most women wear in Muslim countries) make sure you have a scarf with you to cover your head in places of worship.
It may sound strange but men should also avoid wearing shorts, however any kind of pants and a T-shirt will be OK.
One thing you never think about when you are in a country like Saudi Arabia, and many of the countries on the Arabian Peninsula (UAE, Oman, Bahrain, Qatar), public displays of affection are not permitted, whether married or not. This includes a simple kiss, therefore visitors are advised to be aware of, and respectful to, local law when ashore. Remember that drinking alcohol and eating pork are prohibited throughout the country. Most stores and establishments close during prayer time. In Saudi Arabia, same-sex couples are also advised to be discreet when ashore. These restrictions do not apply when you are aboard the ship.
Our day in Jeddah
Disimbarking from the ship for us was quite easy, being Yacht Club guests we were escorted to the bus by our butler, thus skipping the queues.
The Jeddah Cruise Terminal, called “Jeddah Islamic Port” overlooks the Red Sea and is the largest seaport in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. After passing through security, we where greeted by smiling and friendly people who offered us dates and tea, stepping outside men wearing the traditional thobe, where singing and dancing.
We got on the bus and met two of our friends Cinzia and Danilo with whom we spent the day. We set off intrigued by what Jeddah had to offer.
I expected a city similar to Dubai or Abu Dhabi, skyscrapers everywhere and incredible glitz, absolutely not, Jeddah suprised me, as at the moment it is a mix of tradition and modernity!!!! There is lots of construction going on and you can see building sites everywhere in a attempt to transform Jeddah into a glittering, modern city with new shopping malls, restaurants, hotels and resorts with long and beautiful beaches that will soon welcome tourists and travelers from all over the world. Unfortunately all this construction seems to be destroying many of the city’s traditional medinas and historic neighborhoods. I would like to return to Jeddah in a couple of years and see with my eyes how all the changes will have affected it.
Jeddah was particularly buzzing when we where there as it was getting ready for the Saudi Arabian F1 GP that was to be held on March 17-19, 2023. This track is the fastest track in the World Cup and has a truly an unusual shape as it looks like “a hairpin.”
The Corniche
Our first stop is the Corniche or if you prefer the popular waterfront promenade which is the largest in the Saudi Kingdom – several hotels and resorts are already operating but many are still under construction. Jeddah’s waterfront is renowned for its beauty, it is about 40 km long and is an open-air museum: artworks scattered everywhere, an incredible display of pop art, and beautiful sculptures by César, Moore and Pomodoro. You can stroll along the corniche by foot or rent a bike and admire sea views, see families picnicking in green parks at the shade of beautiful trees.
Jeddah Flagpole
From the Corniche we continue our visit passing in front of the famous Jeddah flagpole which is the tallest in the world, a whopping 560 feet (170 meters) located in the middle of King Abdullah Square. It was built in 2014 by Al-Babtain Power and Telecom and the Abdul L Jameel Community Initiative using as much as five hundred tons of steel!!!
Jeddah Historical Center
Jeddah’s Old City “Al-Balad” is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and, for centuries, has been the gateway for Muslim pilgrims heading to the Mecca or Medina.
We get off the bus and start walking in the narrow streets and alleys, admiring the intricate designs and craftsmanship of the traditional wooden architecture and incredibly decorated tower houses and characteristic Souks. Some of these houses are rather run-down or undergoing renovation and others have been renovated to their original glory. Al-Balad used to be the heart of the city until the inhabitants began to get rich and moved into new and modern neighborhoods.
Some of these historic houses are more that 400 years old and remind you of the Yemenite houses. You can visit the Salloum Mtabouli Palace, which actually is a private property located in Al-Qossani Alley in the Al-Balad district. This nearly 400-years-old palace, was designed and built in the urban architectural style, and was the home of a merchant named Hijazi. This property is now owned by a wealthy local family who opted to do little renovation works in order to maintain the authenticity of the palace. There are 2 entrances and 4 floors, the balconies, to say the least, have beautiful wooden grates. Inside the palace you can see old gramophones, wonderful wooden ceilings and antique objects. Believe me it is really worth a visit.
While walking in the square we saw a group of men singing and dancing who invited us to take a picture with them. I must say that the Saudis are very hospitable and friendly.
In the heart of Al-Balad, you can see coral houses on both sides of this busy street in the Souk of Alawi. This Souk is without any doubt the most beautiful in the entire city and perhaps, they say, in the entire country!!! It starts at the inner side of Al-Malek Abdel Aziz Street within the boundaries of the ancient walls and, winding its way through the old city like a huge snake, reaches Bab el Makkah the ancient city gate – believe me a labyrinth of shops and stalls!!!
The Floating Al Rahma Mosque
The real masterpiece of Jeddah is definitely the Al Rahma Floating Mosque also known as Fatima Al Zahra Mosque. This is the first mosque in the world built on water, it lies on the northern tip of Jeddah’s waterfront and is attached to the shore by a walkway.
Those who have seen it during the high tide say that it is amazing as the mosque literally seems to float on the waves.
The mosque was built in 1985 and combines ancient and modern Islamic architecture. It’s turquoise shaped domed structure with a white minaret also has 52 outer domes. The outside area is surrounded by columns and vaults engraved with verses from the Quran.
King Fahad’s Fountain
This fountain was donated to the city of Jeddah by King Fahd, after whom it was named. It is listed in the Guiness Book of World Records as being the fountain with the highest water jet in the world; when at dusk, the fountain is lit by as many as 500 high-brightness LEDs, it can be seen from every corner of the city.
The fountain has a very important meaning for the Arab world as it is built in the shape of Makhbara which means “incense burner”. The Jeddah Tower, which, when completed, will be the world’s first 1-kilometer-tall skyscraper, and will give new prestige to this city.
Staying in Jeddah only for one day we where not able to visit everything, however here are some other places you could visit during your stay In Jeddah:c
- Fakieh Aquarium which is right on the Corniche
- The Red Sea Mall or The Mall of Arabia the best places for shopping
- Fakieh Planetarium an exciting and unique experience where you will be taken on a educational journey through the Universe
- Atallah Happy Land Park
- Al Tayebat International City
Hope I have helped you on what to see in Jeddah, if you have any questions before your trip, let me know in the comments area and I will be pleased to get back to you.
